DIY Barrel Stove Outdoor Furnace

The Conceptualization, construction, and continuous improvement of my DIY Barrel Stove Outdoor Furnace


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DIY Massive Concrete Cobblestone Patio

Introduction

Many of you have wondered about the patio shown in the DIY Barrel Stove Outdoor Furnace pictures. In this topic, I will discuss how I built the patio using a concrete walkway maker form. I specifically used this one: [#AD] http://tinyurl.com/prjpvzl 

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Preparation

I will dedicate this topic specifically to the use of the concrete walkway maker form. If you wish to actually build the same thing, you should follow best practices for creating a structurally sound patio base as I did using the appropriate geo-textile fabric underlayment, crushed stone for aggregate, and all the requisites for building a sound base. This topic assumes you are knowledgeable in this area and / or you can do the research to discover how to create a prepared site / patio base structure.

Prepared patio base

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Materials and Equipment

  • 80 pound bags of concrete – to form the actual patio
  • [#AD] Cobblestone Walkmaker Form – Several of these were simultaneously used to form the cobblestone pattern
  • Concrete Mixer – to mechanize the mixing of concrete, otherwise this is an immensely laborious task
  • Strips of cardboard – to create custom forms for cobblestones near the edges and corners of your patio dimensions
  • Crushed Stone Dust – this is swept into the cobblestone spaces once done. I would NOT use sand as that does not interlock like stone dust

Using the forms

  • Mix concrete to desired consistency
  • Insert concrete into forms
  • Vibrate, tap, and trowel shapes
  • Remove form
  • Advance form and repeat

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First use as many full-sized forms as possible. Eventually, you will need to create the cobblestones that are missing.

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I had her test the patio while it was under construction!

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I was testing the patio out as well, while under construction! Works great!

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Creating Partial Cobblestones

  • Create cardboard forms for individual stones not made by walk maker form
  • Fill with concrete
  • Remove cardboard the next day
  • Use your artistic abilities to create similar stone shapes

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Completion

Once you create all cobblestones and let the patio cure for at least 1 day, you can sweep and fill the cracks with crushed stone dust.

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Decorate and Enjoy!

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If you enjoyed this topic and you would also like to watch a video slideshow of EACH AND EVERY photo used for this project, please check out the following video on you YouTube channel: http://youtu.be/LXZTYXxIZIE

Feel free to watch my other videos and check out my other awesome projects! I hope that you may find them useful!

Facebook:

http://tinyurl.com/m6e9e2t

YouTube:
http://tinyurl.com/n4qpd47

Pinterest:
http://tinyurl.com/pqxhyq7


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DIY Barrel Stove Outdoor Furnace Air Induction

I recently added a valuable upgrade to the Barrel Stove Outdoor Furnace – Forced Air Induction. Using a salvaged squirrel cage bathroom exhaust fan and some HVAC ducting, I was able to build an outdoor, weatherproof air induction system for the furnace.

Overview

I decided to add an air induction system to help burn fuel that normally would not burn without the assistance of forced air. Specifically green, unseasoned firewood. Correctly forced air induction will greatly assist in fuel combustion in situations where a fire will not self-sustain. During those cold, humid days along with wet, green, unseasoned firewood, the forced air induction will allow combustion to happen.

One very important aspect of the air induction system is the steel plates. The steel plates essentially diffuse the incoming air into the barrel. Without the steel plates, the air induction is essentially useless. The steel plates diffuse and guide the air into a circular pattern where all fuel will burn. Without the plates, only a certain portion of the fuel burns and then combustion terminates.

Components

  • Squirrel Cage Fan – salvaged from a bathroom exhaust fan
  • 3 inch galvanized HVAC ducting – directs the forced air into the barrel stove
  • Household light switch and weather proof outdoor housing – an elegant on/off switch convenience
  • Electrical cord – to plug fan into outdoor power outlet
  • Steel plates – used to diffuse incoming barrel stove air
  • 2 inch black NPT pipe nipple and pipe coupler – installed in barrel’s existing 2 inch NPT hole to allow connection of HVAC ducting

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Barrel stove with forced air induction mounted

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Weather proof outdoor housing and modified bathroom exhaust fan for weather resistance

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Weather protected household switch

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 Review

I do not always use the air induction. I only use it whenever I realize that I am trying to burn unseasoned fuel and if the outdoor conditions are wet and humid. If I use the air induction with well seasoned fuel, the barrel will burn too hot and get over-fired. I have made the barrel glow cherry red when keeping the induction fan on! This is meant to be used under the conditions that I described.

If you prefer to watch a video version of this presentation, check out the following:

http://youtu.be/vKteW-_naLU

Here are the components that are used to completely build the DIY Barrel Stove Outdoor Furnace:

ID Name Description Link
1 Relay Contactor On/Off switching of up to 60 Amps of electrical current [#AD] http://tinyurl.com/mxxjhyb
2 Taco 007-F5 Cast Iron Circulator, 1/25 HP Pump for wood stove liquid loop [#AD] http://tinyurl.com/loatg9p
3 PEX Manifold In-home heating system water distribution manifolds (2) [#AD] http://tinyurl.com/luqecxv
4 3-Way 304 Stainless Steel Ball Valve T-Type 3/4″ Diverter valve – used to divert water to the wood stove whenever using wood stove as heat source [#AD] http://tinyurl.com/mohdjhm
5 Power Failure Alarm Alarm used to alert you whenever wood stove has run out of fuel – when alarm sounds, go out there and reload wood. [#AD] http://tinyurl.com/loe78cg
6 Swing Check Valve Used through out the system to maintain flow direction [#AD] http://tinyurl.com/lpwgjd8
7 Backflow Preventer Required when connecting the wood stove liquid loop to domestic water supply [#AD] http://tinyurl.com/ofamxq5
8 Pressure Reducer Required to reduce wood boiler water pressure [#AD] http://tinyurl.com/lat8mmm
9 ¾ inch Copper Coil, 100 feet Copper coil installed inside wood stove to pick up heat – get as much as you are willing to spend. [#AD] http://tinyurl.com/mt7nx9c
10 Latches These latches secure the top-feed can components. [#AD] http://tinyurl.com/pbl9t8v
11 Rutland Furnace Cement Use this cement to seal all barrel stove components such as the door, the flue, and any other areas that you dont want leaking [#AD] http://tinyurl.com/m3dprmm
12 Vogelzang Barrel Stove Kit Basic  Converts barrel into stove [#AD] http://tinyurl.com/lecp2sx
13 Vogelzang Barrel Stove Kit Deluxe  Converts barrel into stove [#AD] http://tinyurl.com/m6v922u
14 US Stove Barrel Stove Kit Basic This is what I have [#AD] http://tinyurl.com/n7s7ybp
15 Vogelzang Barrel Kit Hot Plate Used for cooking – works great! [#AD] http://tinyurl.com/mk2vvj9
16 Line-Voltage Thermostat Thermostat that controls my home heating system’s pump and electric hot water heater [#AD] http://tinyurl.com/muuzn83
16 Programmable Scheduling Line-Voltage Thermostat Thermostat that controls my home heating system’s pump and electric hot water heater [#AD] http://tinyurl.com/mzbzc3z
17 Snap Switch Automatically engages / disengages wood stove circulator pump – You simply start the fire and the pump engages. The pump shuts off when the wood flame dies out and temperatures fall. [#AD] http://tinyurl.com/nstjxr8
18 T & P Relief Valve Safety valve REQUIRED for system operation [#AD] http://tinyurl.com/mxz2odn
19 Plate Heat Exchanger Allows for the separation of two liquid loops – required in freeze zones. [#AD] http://tinyurl.com/pddnfgt
20 Circulator Pump Isolation Flanges Elegant method of mounting your circulator pump [#AD] http://tinyurl.com/p223vgn
21 Stove Burn Indicator Thermometer Required to monitor if you are burning too hot or too cold [#AD] http://tinyurl.com/pythnu9
22 Shark-Bite Coupler Quick connection of plumbing [#AD] http://tinyurl.com/kr49d3q
23 Wireless Portable Temperature Monitor A high-tech wireless temperature monitor and configurable alarm to alert you to load wood [#AD] http://tinyurl.com/lt9bzzs


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DIY Window Mount Solar Air Heater Presentation

Intro

I have been fond of building solar air heaters for many years. Over time, I have built several types of solar air heaters with great success. In this post, you will learn some solar air heater basics as well as my specific implementation currently in operation at my home. My personal implementation of a solar air heater is the DIY Window Mount Solar Air Heater. This means that my solar air heaters are designed to be press-fit into the window frame inside my home.

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Materials

For your convenience, here is a list of some of the materials that are used to construct this device:

ID Name Description Link
1 4 inch round louvers Required for the air intake and exhaust [#AD] http://tinyurl.com/lw7kju5
2 Attic Fan Thermostat Required to automatically turn on / off the circulator fans [#AD] http://tinyurl.com/mdb4u2k
3 12 Volt AC Adapter Required power source for circulator fans [#AD] http://tinyurl.com/lhgumyr
4 12 Volt DC Fan Required for air circulation [#AD] http://tinyurl.com/mhe5ypz
5 DC Power Connector Jacks Used to elegantly connect DC Power Supply to Solar Air Heater [#AD] http://tinyurl.com/lp2r4up
6 Speaker Terminal Cups Another elegant method of connecting DC Power Supply to Solar Air Heater [#AD] http://tinyurl.com/pwudy3u
7 1/2 inch rigid foam board Core building material for the solar heater body [#AD] http://tinyurl.com/p6crus6

Basics

At a high-level description, you can build a device that uses solar exposure to help heat your home.  As long as you factor in a few design principles and variables, you too will be able to help heat your home using the sun’s exposure. Here are some important factors for success:

  • Solar Exposure – You need to have direct sunlight for as long as possible in order for this to work. In my implementation unfortunately, I do not have directly facing SOUTH windows. I have to use my large SOUTH-EAST facing windows. This means that the maximum TIME factor for solar exposure is from 7:45AM until 1:30PM. The rest of the day the sun shines on my SOUTH-WEST wall, which I do not have any decent exposure due to trees and other obstacles. If you have a complete SOUTH facing wall without any obstacles, you will have the longest solar exposure possible, therefore generating the most heat.
  • Surface Area – My windows are a significant size, therefore I am able to generate a decent amount of heat. The idea is simple: the greater surface area you have, the greater amount of heat you can collect to heat your area. I once built a very beautiful and advanced window mount solar air heater in a 2 foot x 3 foot window and its heat generation was insignificant. I ended up removing it.
  • Window Styles
    • Single-Pane older non-insulated windows – Window Mount solar air heaters that I built under this configuration have been the most intense heat-generating devices! In fact, I bordered on the limits of safety! In one installation, the solar heater generated so much heat that I ended up melting the window plastics as well as boiling the sap out of the window’s wooden framework! Old single-pane windows without any LoE coating or argon gas injection are essentially like a magnifying glass against your solar air heater! Loads of heat but dangerous!
    • Modern multi-pane, insulated, argon gas filled, LoE coated windows – These windows definitely suppress the solar exposure, but provide safety. This is a more reliable configuration.
  • Electronics – There is a very important reliance but very simple implementation of electronics in this solar air heater. This is important to create a system that thoroughly circulates the heat into your room. This system uses simple computer fans, an attic fan thermostat, and 12VDC AC Adapter to power everything. I have built passive systems (without electronics) that just did not heat the room enough. This is a similar paradigm as using a circulator pump on a hot water heating system as opposed to just using thermosyphoning. The pump is much more thorough.

My home does not really have a wall that is South facing. I had to work with what I have and install the heaters on the SOUTH EAST wall’s two large windows. 

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This ONE SINGLE window mount solar air heater SINGLE-HANDEDLY heated the entire first floor of my other home to around 74 degrees F thanks to it being mounted in a single-pane, old-style window frame! This is the window whose plastic melted and the wood framing tree sap was boiled out into an oozing, sticky mess! Pretty scary and very powerful! This unit used aluminum soffit material for the heat collector:

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Construction

Building the Window Mount Solar Air Heater is quite simple. Construction materials and electronics are very simple and low-cost. The main component is rigid foam board for the body, metal heating elements used to absorb and collect the solar generated heat, a few 12VDC computer fans, an attic fan thermostat, some wiring, 12V AC Adapters, some aluminum HVAC tape, construction adhesive, and some beautification materials of choice (contact paper, cloth, etc) to make it look nice.

Make a rigid foam board box that press-fits into your interior window frame:

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Attach metal fins (various materials such as flashing, flattened beverage cans, soffit, etc) to interior with construction adhesive:

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Install and wire fans and thermostat:

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You can adjust the thermostat to engage when the internal air heater temperature reaches around 80 degrees F:

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Paint the interior with high-temp black paint:

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I used old curtains for beautification. You can use your imagination here.

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Operation

When heating season comes along, you can install the solar air heaters into your windows, plug in the power supplies, and let them run! Once the warm weather starts to come along, you can simply remove them and put them in storage! I store mine in my basement. Very simple!

My left heater:

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My right heater:

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Savings

As long as you have solar exposure and no overcast days, you can see a significant savings in your energy expenses. After several years of use, I can say on average I save around $40.00 to $50.00 per month during the heating season. During the cold season, my first floor heats up to a maximum of 71 degrees F all through the solar air heaters. I have observed that I get maximum solar gain whenever there is lots of undisturbed snow covering the ground during a clear sunny day. This causes an effect where additional sunlight is reflected off the snow onto the front of my house. This increases the surface area factor of this entire process. I COULD reproduce this by covering my entire front lawn with shiny, reflective aluminum sheets 🙂 but that would not be practical!

This year so far (2014-2015) has very little solar exposure and many overcast days. My solar air heaters do not engage often due to this weather. HOWEVER, this is also my first time using my DIY Barrel Stove Outdoor Furnace, so THAT has dramatically reduced my heating expenses in itself! These units have paid for themselves many times over for the few years that I own them. It is a lovely feeling to walk downstairs into a very nice warn and toasty heat that envelopes your body!

If you prefer to watch videos on this topic and get a deeper understanding, please visit my YouTube channel and review the various related videos pertaining to this topic:

http://tinyurl.com/n4qpd47


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DIY Barrel Stove Outdoor Furnace Electrical

In this topic, I will focus on the electrical aspect of the DIY Barrel Stove Outdoor Furnace. The electrical aspect of this system is very simple once you see how it is designed and put together.

Let’s digest this diagram for a moment and then I will cover each item.

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Need for electricity in this system

In this system, electricity is needed to drive circulator pumps; one pump for the add-on outdoor wood furnace and one existing circulator pump for the household hydronic heating system. Any additional electrical device used is optional and for convenience purposes.

Plug and Play

To make the switching of devices as easy as possible, no hard-wiring is used, but instead two switch boxes that allow you to simply plug in the devices that will be used in this system. You can plug in the circulator pumps as well as other electronic devices such as lights, alarms, or anything else you can think of that will aide you in the operation of this system. By using standard wall outlets mounted safely in receptacle boxes, you have a flexible system that can be easily changed. The entire receptacle array gets powered by a simple electrical cord that gets plugged into any standard wall outlets you may have nearby. This alleviates the need to hard-wire this into your home. An electrical cord is also run from one receptacle box to the other one so that they both get powered and controlled simultaneously.

This is the outdoor liquid loop portion of the system. The circulator pump that moves the outdoor wood boiler liquid is plugged into the automated receptacle box.

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The existing home heating system’s circulator pump is plugged into the wood boiler controlled receptacle box and then plugged into the regular receptacle box when in normal operation – using electricity to heat the water instead of wood heat.

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Device Operation

The electrical devices should engage whenever there is a fire in the outdoor wood furnace. When the fire dies out or gets weaker, the devices should disengage. This should all be performed automatically, without any intervention. During the testing phase of this system, I simply used a plug-in wall receptacle timer and set it to stop after a few hours of operation. Once I was satisfied with my tests, I purchased a snap-switch; a type of switch that automatically engages a circuit (closed) whenever the temperature reaches or exceeds the switch’s temperature threshold. The snap switch then opens up once the temperature falls to the lower threshold. This will automate the engaging and disengaging of the circulator pumps.

The snap switch is installed at this exact spot on the outdoor wood furnace. When a fire is lit in the furnace, it will eventually heat up the water in the copper tubing. The heat will travel and heat up the external tubing. The snap switch will engage when the tubing heats the switch up to the threshold temperature. The snap switch is carefully protected and insulated.

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This is the electrical wire that interrupts the electrical system’s hot lead and is wired to the snap switch. Refer to the initial diagram to see the wiring details.

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Snap-Switch Bypass

In addition to the circuit engagement controlled by the snap-switch, I also wanted a manual override via a regular switch. This allows me to directly engage the electrical system via the flip of the switch. This is for testing and purging operations. Please refer to the initial diagram for details on how the switch is wired into the circuitry.

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 Accessories

The night-lights, the power failure alarm, and the circulator pump cooling fan are all but accessories that provide a better user experience while using this system. The night-lights provide a visual indication that the system is currently operating while the power failure alarm provides an audible indication whenever the system stops – then you know it is time to go outside and reload the wood furnace. A popular high-tech and convenient solution used by many in the residential purchased and installed outdoor wood boiler community is the use of a wireless BBQ information and alarm device. That solution is the best that I have seen when it comes to convenience for wood reloading notifications!

The following is the very simple power failure alarm – plug it into any of the snap-switch controlled outlets and switch the alarm to “on”. Whenever the power shuts off it will emit a loud siren. That is your signal to go and reload the wood. Once the fire heats up the coil and snap switch enough, the alarm will shut down. You can also turn the alarm “off” for when you know you will not be using the outdoor wood furnace.

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The following the the lovely wireless BBQ temperature monitor and alarm. You configure when the alarm sounds and you can carry the device anywhere up to around 300 feet away. This is what the real outdoor wood boiler community advanced users have! If you notice, the device has two temperature probes – typically used this way: one for the meat temperature, one for the BBQ oven temperature itself. For outdoor wood furnace use, you can strap one probe to the OUTGOING (HOT) furnace liquid line and one on the INCOMING (COOL) liquid line. You can monitor both the HOT going out and the COOL coming back to the furnace. Really great, right?

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That’s it! Now you understand how the electrical aspect of the DIY Outdoor Barrel Stove Outdoor Furnace works! For your convenience, here is a list of components referenced in this post:

ID Name Description Link
5 Power Failure Alarm Alarm used to alert you whenever wood stove has run out of fuel – when alarm sounds, go out there and reload wood. [#AD] http://tinyurl.com/loe78cg
17 Snap Switch Automatically engages / disengages wood stove circulator pump – You simply start the fire and the pump engages. The pumpshuts off when the wood flame dies out and temperatures fall. [#AD] http://tinyurl.com/nstjxr8
23 Wireless Portable Temperature Monitor A high-tech wireless temperature monitor and configurable alarm to alert you to load wood [#AD] http://tinyurl.com/lt9bzzs
24 Configurable Temperature Switch Controller and Alarm This is a far more advanced upgrade to the snap-switch. This device allows you to configure the temperature of when the pumps engage and also provides you with a built in alarm that sounds off at your specified temperature. The price of this unit is around the same as the simple snap-switch! [#AD] http://tinyurl.com/oo3upuu

 

To fully understand the big picture of how all components work together, please check out this blog post first so that you see each and every component working together for this system:

http://tinyurl.com/p4xpcme

If you prefer to watch a video about the electrical aspect of the DIY Barrel Stove Outdoor Furnace, you can watch the following video:

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=lMNPih9_VmQ


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DIY Barrel Stove Outdoor Furnace Heating System Tie-In

In this post, I will show you how my existing home heating system’s plumbing is tied into the DIY Barrel Stove Outdoor Furnace.

To fully understand the big picture of how all components work together, please check out this blog post first so that you see each and every component working together for this system:

http://tinyurl.com/p4xpcme

The existing home heating system’s water must be somehow connected to the system plate-based liquid to liquid heat exchanger (see plumbing topic for details). This is how it is done in my home heating system:

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With the use of a three-way “T” ball valve, I am able to redirect my home heating system’s water towards the Wood Boiler’s heat exchanger and essentially bypapss my hot water tank entirely. Whenever I use electricity to heat my home, it makes sense that the hot water tank itself contains the electric heating elements that heat the water and then that water is circulated through out the house. However, when switching to wood boiler mode, heat is actually present in the heat exchanger. The water tank becomes an additional, unneeded load in this mode. My solution is the installation of a bypass ball valve that allows me to send water to the heat exchanger and then once hot, circulated to the rest of the house.

Here is the ball valve in standard mode. The water is pumped by the circulaltor directly into the tank and out from the hot side of the tank – normal electric heat mode.

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In wood boiler heat mode, I rotate the valve (among other actions) so that water is redirected to the heat exchanger.

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Water goes to the heat exchanger, picks up heat, gets sent to the rest of the house, and back again in a continuous loop.

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Before this specific implementation, my previous tie-in was done in such a way in that the hot water tank was prioritized FIRST and THEN the rest of the house. That was the quickest way that I was able to tie it in at the time – just to make sure the system worked! Afterwards, I identified areas for improvement and this is one of the most important ones!

Safety: One would think that without the safety buffer and thermal mass of the tank, it is possible to greatly overheat the water to a dangerous level. That is true, however, I have more than enough thermal mass in my in-floor PEX tubing, baseboards, and 1 cast-iron radiator that this is not an issue.

If you prefer to watch a video on this, here it is: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=S12wtPedZjk
Here are the components that are referenced in this post:

ID Name Description Link
1 Relay Contactor On/Off switching of up to 60 Amps of electrical current [#AD] http://tinyurl.com/mxxjhyb
4 3-Way 304 Stainless Steel Ball Valve T-Type 3/4″ Diverter valve – used to divert water to the wood stove whenever using wood stove as heat source [#AD] http://tinyurl.com/mohdjhm
5 Power Failure Alarm Alarm used to alert you whenever wood stove has run out of fuel – when alarm sounds, go out there and reload wood. [#AD] http://tinyurl.com/loe78cg
6 Swing Check Valve Used through out the system to maintain flow direction [#AD] http://tinyurl.com/lpwgjd8
19 Plate Heat Exchanger Allows for the separation of two liquid loops – required in freeze zones. [#AD] http://tinyurl.com/pddnfgt
20 Circulator Pump Isolation Flanges Elegant method of mounting your circulator pump [#AD] http://tinyurl.com/p223vgn
22 Shark-Bite Coupler Quick connection of plumbing [#AD] http://tinyurl.com/kr49d3q


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DIY Barrel Stove Outdoor Furnace Plumbing

In this topic, I will cover the plumbing aspect of the DIY Barrel Stove Outdoor Furnace project. I used easily available components to assemble the plumbing.

To fully understand the big picture of how all components work together, please check out this blog post first so that you see each and every component working together for this system:

http://tinyurl.com/p4xpcme

Copper Coil – This is installed inside the barrel stove firebox. The coil’s purpose is to extract heat from the flames and circulate the liquid inside into your home. Ideally, the larger AND longer the coil, the more heat it can capture. In particular, I used a 1/2 inch type L copper coil that is 20 feet long. This is what I was able to get my hands on at the time. Ideally, I would LOVE to have used a 3/4 inch coil by 100 feet long! This is one of the priciest parts of the installation.

Copper Coil

 

Barrel Stove Penetration – Mounting the coil is as easy as just unwinding it a bit and then placing the two ends of the coil on the OUTSIDE of the barrel rear. Mark the holes and drill using a step bit.

Copper Coil Fitting

 

Insert the coil inside the barrel and push the two ends out of the holes you drilled

Copper Coil Barrel Stove

Inside View

Copper Coil Inside Barrel Stove

Soldering Elbows and Interconnects – You can now continue the plumbing run by soldering the appropriate elbows, safety valves, fill valves, and additional copper tubing to send the liquid into your house.

I used the following components immediately in the back of the Barrel: Temperature and Pressure Valve, Ball Valve, and a few T’s and Elbows.

Copper Interconnects

 

Here they are, soldered into place, as well as more flexible Type L copper tubing (that I already had)

Barrel Stove Plumbing

 

Plumbing Run to the House – I used two Shark-Bite(tm) couplers to easily connect the Barrel Stove exterior copper to PEX tubing. The PEX tubing was then routed and sent to the house, penetrating through two holes I drilled through the foundation.

Shark-Bite

Barrel Stove Wood Furnace

PEX Tubing

 

Pressure Testing – Once everything is assembled and pressurized (later on in this construction), the exterior plumbing should be insulated. I insulated mine with foam pre-slit insulation tubing and then covered the plumbing with black ABS plastic sewer pipe for protection.

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House Interior Plumbing – There are several components here at work. Most importantly, the pump and the heat exchanger

Heat Exchanger

 

Tie-In with domestic water supply – You need a back-flow preventer, a pressure reducer, as well as additional interconnects

Back flow preventer

As well as various other plumbing elbows, adapters, and interconnects

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Finished plumbing portion inside house

DIY Barrel Stove Wood Boiler Plumbing

The OUTDOOR LOOP is filled with a 50/50 mix of non-toxic glycol and water. There are other parts of this system that are not shown or covered in this topic, but stay tuned and I will post more topics to cover them as well such as how this ties into my particular existing hydronic heating system, the electrical wiring, additional upgrades and more!

 

Here are the components that are referenced in this post:

ID Name Description Link
2 Taco 007-F5 Cast Iron Circulator, 1/25 HP Pump for wood stove liquid loop [#AD] http://tinyurl.com/loatg9p
6 Swing Check Valve Used through out the system to maintain flow direction [#AD] http://tinyurl.com/lpwgjd8
7 Backflow Preventer Required when connecting the wood stove liquid loop to domestic water supply [#AD] http://tinyurl.com/ofamxq5
8 Pressure Reducer Required to reduce wood boiler water pressure [#AD] http://tinyurl.com/lat8mmm
9 ¾ inch Copper Coil, 100 feet Copper coil installed inside wood stove to pick up heat – get as much as you are willing to spend. [#AD] http://tinyurl.com/mt7nx9c
18 T & P Relief Valve Safety valve REQUIRED for system operation [#AD] http://tinyurl.com/mxz2odn
19 Plate Heat Exchanger Allows for the separation of two liquid loops – required in freeze zones. [#AD] http://tinyurl.com/pddnfgt
20 Circulator Pump Isolation Flanges Elegant method of mounting your circulator pump [#AD] http://tinyurl.com/p223vgn
22 Shark-Bite Coupler Quick connection of plumbing [#AD] http://tinyurl.com/kr49d3q


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Component List for DIY Barrel Stove Outdoor Furnace

Here is a list of components that I am using for my DIY Barrel Stove Outdoor Furnace as well as some optional components that could be substituted. To follow along, review the diagrams that I attached to this post, and each component on the diagram will be identified by a number (ID). You can then reference the component on the list below. I did not include 100% of ALL components and materials (E.g., copper tubing, interconnects, etc) just the main ones.

Existing Heating System Diagram

DIY Barrel Stove Outdoor Furnace - Existing heating system diagram

 

Complete System Diagram – Including the DIY Barrel Stove Outdoor Furnace

DIY Barrel Stove Outdoor Furnace - COMPLETE system diagram

 

Materials for DIY Barrel Stove Outdoor Furnace System

ID Name Description Link
1 Relay Contactor On/Off switching of up to 60 Amps of electrical current [#AD] http://tinyurl.com/mxxjhyb
2 Taco 007-F5 Cast Iron Circulator, 1/25 HP Pump for wood stove liquid loop [#AD] http://tinyurl.com/loatg9p
3 PEX Manifold In-home heating system water distribution manifolds (2) [#AD] http://tinyurl.com/luqecxv
4 3-Way 304 Stainless Steel Ball Valve T-Type 3/4″ Diverter valve – used to divert water to the wood stove whenever using wood stove as heat source [#AD] http://tinyurl.com/mohdjhm
5 Power Failure Alarm Alarm used to alert you whenever wood stove has run out of fuel – when alarm sounds, go out there and reload wood. [#AD] http://tinyurl.com/loe78cg
6 Swing Check Valve Used through out the system to maintain flow direction [#AD] http://tinyurl.com/lpwgjd8
7 Backflow Preventer Required when connecting the wood stove liquid loop to domestic water supply [#AD] http://tinyurl.com/ofamxq5
8 Pressure Reducer Required to reduce wood boiler water pressure [#AD] http://tinyurl.com/lat8mmm
9 ¾ inch Copper Coil, 100 feet Copper coil installed inside wood stove to pick up heat – get as much as you are willing to spend. [#AD] http://tinyurl.com/mt7nx9c
10 Latches These latches secure the top-feed can components. [#AD] http://tinyurl.com/pbl9t8v
11 Rutland Furnace Cement Use this cement to seal all barrel stove components such as the door, the flue, and any other areas that you dont want leaking [#AD] http://tinyurl.com/m3dprmm
12 Vogelzang Barrel Stove Kit Basic  Converts barrel into stove [#AD] http://tinyurl.com/lecp2sx
13 Vogelzang Barrel Stove Kit Deluxe  Converts barrel into stove [#AD] http://tinyurl.com/m6v922u
14 US Stove Barrel Stove Kit Basic This is what I have [#AD] http://tinyurl.com/n7s7ybp
15 Vogelzang Barrel Kit Hot Plate Used for cooking – works great! [#AD] http://tinyurl.com/mk2vvj9
16 Line-Voltage Thermostat Thermostat that controls my home heating system’s pump and electric hot water heater [#AD] http://tinyurl.com/muuzn83
17 Snap Switch Automatically engages / disengages wood stove circulator pump – You simply start the fire and the pump engages. The pump shuts off when the wood flame dies out and temperatures fall. [#AD] http://tinyurl.com/nstjxr8
18 T & P Relief Valve Safety valve REQUIRED for system operation [#AD] http://tinyurl.com/mxz2odn
19 Plate Heat Exchanger Allows for the separation of two liquid loops – required in freeze zones. [#AD] http://tinyurl.com/pddnfgt
20 Circulator Pump Isolation Flanges Elegant method of mounting your circulator pump [#AD] http://tinyurl.com/p223vgn
21 Stove Burn Indicator Thermometer Required to monitor if you are burning too hot or too cold [#AD] http://tinyurl.com/pythnu9
22 Shark-Bite Coupler Quick connection of plumbing [#AD] http://tinyurl.com/kr49d3q
23 Wireless Portable Temperature Monitor A high-tech wireless temperature monitor and configurable alarm to alert you to load wood [#AD] http://tinyurl.com/lt9bzzs
24 Configurable Temperature Switch Controller and Alarm This is a far more advanced upgrade to the snap-switch. This device allows you to configure the temperature of when the pumps engage and also provides you with a built in alarm that sounds off at your specified temperature. The price of this unit is around the same as the simple snap-switch! [#AD] http://tinyurl.com/oo3upuu